TUTORIAL: Epoxidharz als Anfänger richtig verarbeiten / DIY-Anleitung für Epoxidharz

Hello and welcome to my workshop for a new tutorial in Epoxy resin, this will be a more extensive video today and my The requirement of this video is that you immediately start working with epoxy resin and that all questions are answered. Let's see if I can do that, it starts as always right after the intro. Then I would say, let's start right away and clarify first of all the Question what kind of epoxy resins are available. Like I said before, basically there are many manufacturers of epoxy resins but the resins can all be divided into three categories. The first category would be the highly viscous resins like here the Honey resin, which is actually always used if any surfaces can be coated. The resin itself is quite viscous and therefore optimally suitable. As you can see, I have now here for example a burned Wood surface coated. the surface is characterized by then by the fact that it is quite resilient, UV-resistant and high-gloss.

Then as the next category there are of course the low viscosity Resins, we have those right here. Low viscosity means that it is is fairly flowable, that is, fairly fluid, and these resins are always is used when the resin is to penetrate the material, for example in wood or when different layers are poured at different heights shall. The low-viscosity resin can again be classified into categories of different pouring heights, for example, we would have resin here which allows a maximum pouring height of of ten inches, then here five inches, two and an inch.

These are the differences, we will come back to the casting height later, that is actually exactly says, the height which can be poured at once. Then there are of course the UV resins but they are used relatively rarely, the are used, for example, in jewellery making. This is Epoxy resin which is irradiated with UV light and then within a very short time, so a few seconds really cures completely.

That would be times the division into which epoxy resin can be divided. Then I already come to the next subject, which is a very important subject, namely Industrial safety, i.e. the safety instructions for handling epoxy resin. There are not very many now, but the few hints which are there should be in any case, in your own interest, for your own health. When you work with epoxy resin, you should First see that the space in which he works is well ventilated. As with paint, when working with epoxy resin Vapors, and they are not necessarily beneficial to health when inhaled. When sanding, mixing and processing epoxy resin, wear a thin layer of I still have to wear a breathing mask and then nothing can then you are on the safe side.

If you work with epoxy resin, of course you should wear long clothes to avoid skin contact. In addition, gloves, which are disposable gloves, but there are also not all suitable, the suitable gloves are made of Buityl or nitrile because other gloves may be attacked and then the resin can decompose the latex. If you use the proper gloves, the resin cannot harm the gloves. If you now have any splashes on your skin, it is not life-threatening, the resin should be applied fairly quickly with much water and what may happen is that there may be an allergic reaction on the skin and the gives. As I have said, remove it immediately, and then it is usually no problem Now, when you are mixing larger quantities, you should take care to Wear goggles, you all know when you are wearing color or Lacquer mixed with an electric hand mixer, is available very quickly Splashes, and if they get into the eye, it is not healthy for the eye. If that should happen, wash the eye immediately with plenty of water and go to the doctor go.

But it's best to wear protective goggles right away, then such things can be avoided from the outset. That's about it as far as Safety precautions, you have seen, it is not much, but what I said If I have a problem, please keep it up and you will be on the safe side and then you can nothing happens. Then we also come straight from the theoretical to the practical part. When If you wish to cast anything made of epoxy resin, then of course you will need a suitable Mold. There are two variants of casting moulds, either a ready-bought Form or build form itself. The purchased forms are mostly made of silicon, as you can see here, which can be used over and over again. These exist in various forms, here also, for example, as a pyramid shape or as a Pencil holder.

As I have said, there are many different variations to be purchased. The resin is then simply filled in and then you can easily remove it again. If you now have any ideas of your own that you want to implement, where it is now maybe there is no finished form, then there is still the possibility to I will show you right now how to build the form itself and what there is to consider. If If you have then decided that you will build the mold yourself, then you may actually use any wooden board. I always use here coated chipboard from the hardware store, these are both inexpensive and the surface is already extremely smooth. You can also use acrylic glass or Using other materials, you must be somewhat creative. With acrylic glass it is possible to produce fairly good form.

The Most Important in Building of the mould is actually that the mould is then waterproof, so that no resin can leak. I usually add an additional silicone joint, so that it is then really one hundred per cent tight. So how said, there is really a great emphasis on the density of form. To me it is It has happened that I once spilled almost a liter of resin, it was an extremely sticky affair to remove the whole thing again and the you don't need a second time. If it happens once, I tell you, it will never happen again. Like I said, even the smallest holes in the mold are enough, Especially the low-viscosity resin is as liquid as water, this runs out and in retrospect you have hardly any possibility to Sealing holes. So, as I have said, take care, then you will have no problems. The form, so the inside must of course also be coated accordingly so that the resin cannot stick to the wood.

On the one hand you can use special adhesive tapes for epoxy resin processing On the one hand you can use special adhesive tapes for epoxy resin processing also quite normal parcel tape, I always use that and therefore it actually works quite the same way. Just as a little tip .Of course you can also use a wax-based release agent spray. The sprays are sprayed very thinly, the excess is removed and polished and then it also forms a separating layer and sucks to prevent the resin from sticking. I usually do it by taping the wood and then finally applying a thin and then I am on the 100 per cent coverage of the spray. On the safe side, then nothing can happen. Then we have the formwork construction actually already finished and then we'll see what's next comes. Now then, the question is how to prepare the resin and what you have to make preparations before pouring. Before you can start mixing, you will of course need the right Resin for your project and we have already said so earlier, that in most cases it depends on the pouring height.

Let us now simply assume that we are going to cast a block that is twenty inches long, five centimeters wide, and ten centimeters high, then you will need a casting resin here with a maximum casting height of ten centimetres, if you want to do it in one pour So the dimensions, the length and the width are here completely irrelevant, it only depends on the height.

Of course you can also in five layers of two centimeters each or in two layers with Pour five centimeters each, it does not matter, therefore also lower is always possible, just do not exceed the maximum pouring height, because otherwise can cause the resin to boil and become extremely hot, and then you can Throw the result into the bin right from the start. As I have said, always look to the pouring height that it fits and then there will be no problems with heat. You will find information regarding the pouring height either on the resin or on the manufacturer's data sheet and there is nothing more to do with casting to say. I would say now we go ahead and Now I will show you what is needed for mixing and what is needed for mixing is to be observed. For mixing I have now prepared everything you need. To one I would recommend that you use a pad. If he is often using epoxy resin, I would use a silicone pad like this one.

When mixing there is always something that goes wrong and such silicone mats can simply be I use it again and again, because the resin can be removed easily. Then, of course, you will need a mixing vessel; there are, of course again different versions, either with scale or here made of silicone. I'm not a friend of silicone cups now, they can be used several times because, you can clean them again, but there is always no residue back to the Harz Mountains the next time. I prefer to use such disposable plastic drinking cups as you use once and then next time you take a nine.

To Mixing itself is done here using such wooden stirring sticks as are available here in different versions and different sizes, which are also available from Plastic and they are actually disposable materials. To mix the resin I use a fine scale, this is a kitchen scale. You will definitely need a scale which is fairly accurate because the Mixing ratio besides me then come equal, that must be exactly vote. That's all you need to mix. When you have prepared everything so far, then we can already start watering, there are also a few little things to keep in mind and with that we now continue. When processing the epoxy resin, the room temperature must be suitable, this should be between 20 and 22 degrees Celsius. I say this is now the whole normal room comfortable temperature and in this case optimal.

Basically, the dripping time of epoxy resin at higher temperatures is shortened, which means the processing time is shorter and at low temperatures the dripping time is extended. At At best you should, of course, look to see that during the entire processing, that is, during mixing, casting, and during curing the Temperature is constant because then you get optimal results. Then we come to the resin, which always consists of two components, namely once from the resin and once from the hardener. The components are always prepared in different containers because once you have the two components mixed together, the resin hardens. As you can see, on the one hand it is optical, separated. Here the resin is black and the hardener red. But you can always see it by the size of the container, the bigger one is always the resin and the small is always the harder. Plus, it's also written on it, so…

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It cannot really be confused. In mixing it is very important to Please note that the mixing ratio indicated, which is Example for Honey Resin 2:1 and that means that two parts of resin with one part of hardener should be mixed together. It's all about weight. With Epoxyplast 100 P it is exactly that same mixing ratio but there are also other resins where other l mixing ratios are required, and this is actually always either in the product data sheet or on the hardener, because you just have to look. But as I said, there you should really embarrassed to make sure that the mixing ratio is maintained that's why I always use a kitchen scale here. When the the ratio between resin and hardener is not optimal If the resin does not fit, then the resin will not harden completely or you will have other problems.

In any case the mixing ratio must be complete, i.e. it must be optimal, the is important. What else is to be observed when you open the packages then you should promptly reseal them because, in particular, the Hardeners with ambient air, that is, with the oxygen in the air and if you leave it open too long, it may react is no longer useful. So when you have mixed the resin, immediately the containers close up again, and then nothing can happen. There is more to this now actually not to say anything more about mixing.

Then we might as well go straight to the The next subject is colour, that is, colouring epoxy resin. On the subject of epoxy resin paints I have a small assortment for you here but this is really only a very small selection, because the Variants and possibilities and the different colours that exist are naturally almost infinite. In general it can be said that in epoxy resin the Have colours divided into three variants. These would be the dry pigments here, the pigment pastes here, and the Alcohol colors. The difference is now actually to the point that there are dull hues in pigments, there are in metallic tones, with pearl effect and of course in all different colour variations one can imagine. The pigments can also be with each other, so that new interesting colour shades are created.

You just have to be a little creative. The liquid colors are actually quite similar to the pigments, in terms of colour intensity as well, only that they are are liquid. Then we come to the alcohol colors, which have the difference that they are used in are transparent to most variants, i.e. they are even in the cured state are transparent, you can see through them, whereas the other colours actually all colour through. As I said, the colors that will added to the finished resin mixture, only extreme small quantities because the color effect is really extreme and should be really make sure that you don't admit too much, because otherwise the hardening can be impaired and the wallet is quite burdened.

You will see, the color effect is really extreme and the you just have to try it out. There is actually more to the topic Colours and colour pigments not to say I would say let's get straight to the next topic and that's then the subject of casting epoxy resin and what to consider. When you then begin to water, you should first of all take care, as already mentioned, that you do not exceed the maximum pouring height of your resin I have now in this example with a resin with a maximum pouring height of 10 millimetres and therefore the resin is only used for 10 millimetres high into the mould. Before you then proceed with the next layer the resin must first harden for a certain time, which is Duration also always depends on the room temperature and is the product I use takes about five to eight hours. You can also test it by pressing the Glove briefly lasts the resin and when the resin then pulls light threads, then you can start with the next course.

The next course is then also the again a centimeter thick, and you'll have to repeat that for just as long, until then your body is completely infused. When you are in several layers, then the resin should not yet be applied between the individual passes. be completely cured and, as already mentioned, only slightly have put on. This procedure is then called wet-in-wet casting and this has the advantage that the resin forms a better bond with each other and that transitions will not be seen later. Now, if your resin nevertheless is completely hardened, which can happen when we go to the Example no time options now have a second layer in the to pour the water at the time indicated, then it is no problem, but then you would have to sand the surface slightly, i.e.

With a 240 grain sandpaper over it so that the surface is once more grippy, and then we can completely Pour the next layer normally. if you are now planning projects of higher elevations, as I am here at ten centimeters, then I would advise you to get resin, so that you can make the mould in one go. can pour. The resins are somewhat more expensive, but you save yourself also much work and especially working hours. The real problem with Casting of epoxy resin, especially with high viscosity resins, is the avoidance of of air inclusions and air bubbles. Among other things, these can be removed by by selecting the resin from as low height slowly pours the mold and thus does not add extra air brings in. When you bring in molds of varying heights or If you have different levels, then it is best to pour at the lowest point of the mould, so that the resin then slowly moves from the bottom to the can spread out at the top of the mould, thus the air and air bubbles then transported to the surface from bottom to top and can do not become lodged in the lower strata.

When using resins with high casting heights, air inclusions and Bubbles are less of an issue now, as they are usually very low viscosity resins that have a very long drip time, the drip time, i.e. the time of Processing time is usually up to 20 hours and therefore the trapped air has just brought itself to the surface for a very long time and therefore it is also said that these resins are actually self-sustaining ventilate. To remove the superficial air bubbles I use here always a hot air dryer, you can also use a Bunsen burner, then but you should make sure that the epoxy resin used is not easily flammable resin, otherwise there may be a fire hazard.

Of course, heat must be applied only selectively, You should not, therefore, linger too long in one place because the resin may become too hot. Here is a little tip for avoiding Air bubbles when you want to pour wood. It is recommended that you pour the wood first apply a layer of epoxy resin and then dry let. Thus the fine pores in the wood in which air is still trapped is closed and so you later Fewer problems with escaping air and air bubbles. When your epoxy resin is completely cured after about seven days, then proceeds to the next operation, which would be grinding and polishing of the surface, and I'm going to add a little bit tell. In grinding, of course, there are again various Approaches and differing opinions, I will tell you how I always work and I actually work in three steps, namely the rough grinding, the Fine grinding and polishing with polishing pads. The rough grinding is for coarse unevenness, deep scratches to remove and if whole layers are to be removed. I use for the Coarse sanding Always use a machine, the eccentric sander and appropriate Top grinding wheels with grits from 240 to 400.

When the rough grinding is finished you will see that the surface turns white and dull and when the deep scratches are removed, it goes with the finishing touches. For the finishing touches I then use special Wet sandpaper, available in sets and with different grits of 400 The sandpaper and the other things I will give you downstairs in the Link video description. The different grit sizes are then one after the other and then the surface should be completely sanded through and be quite clear. As a little tip, if I use fine sandpaper, when I work with wet sandpaper, I always proceed in such a way that I put the paper about ten minutes before I start sanding, in Put water in until the paper curls up by itself. This has then just The advantage is that the paper does not react so quickly with the dust when sanding is added and can then be used for longer.

You will then see that in the finishing touches on the top surface forms a white lubricating film, which is the white grinding dust which is removed and is then moist. Then you must, between each grinding cycle, that is, when you have a new Sandpaper is used again and again to completely wash off so that the surface is completely free of dust, because otherwise the dust will cause scratches on the Surface produced. For the finishing touches there is actually no more to say, as the last operation is then still to be polished, more I always use a polishing paste here, which is applied with a microfiber cloth is applied to the surface, rubbed in and thereby even microscopic scratches on the surface closed.

Then should the surface be completely polished. There is therefore nothing more to be said for polishing and grinding, then the subject would also have been closed. So, folks, that brings us to actually at the end, with the topic epoxy resin processing I would be ready through. I hope that I have been able to live up to my claim and that I have been able to that you have been able to bring the subject nearer in a short time and that you dare to to work with epoxy resin, without having to read up on it again or to you have to think about.

If this is the case, then the video has its purpose fulfilled. As I said, we are at the end, I hope you enjoyed the video. If so, you are welcome to leave me a thumbs-up. If you have any questions, Suggestions for improvement or suggestions, just write in the comments below. For those who have not yet subscribed to a channel, simply subscribe now. Cool projects are coming soon. For today is over, I thank you for watching, wish you all the best and wish you a lot of fun with your do-it-yourself. Take care!.

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