How to do Electrical Wiring properly! (more or less….) GERMAN STYLE!

Hi there, so a good friend of mine recently
told me that he was not happy with the electrical wiring/system in his garage. And after having a look at it by myself I
understood what he meant. He basically only has two outlets along with
one switch to turn on and off a pretty dark lamp. Combine that with aluminium conductors and
you got yourself an electrical system that is around 40 to 50 years old. So in this video I will team up with my friend
who is actually a professional electrician with more than 10 years of work experience
in order to renew the electrical wiring/system in his garage. Along the way we will tell you all the juicy
theoretical and practical details which are most important when it comes to doing electrical
wiring here in Germany. But that does not mean that we encourage you
to do your own electrical wiring. You should always hire a professional to do
electrical work because if something goes wrong, it can end up in a disaster. And with that being said, let's not waste
any more time and let's get started! This video is sponsored by JLCPCB! Feel free to visit their website
to not only find out what awesome PCB and Assembly services they offer but also to easily
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The first thing we did was pretty much the
most boring part by drawing a rectangle as a representation of the garage and then positioning
the electrical components in there according to our needs. Such a plan is called an installation plan
and it is rather important for the planning phase. We decided on 4 Lamps, 4 double outlets and
one two circuit switch in combination with a single outlet. And by the way those symbols are standardized
and thus you can easily find them on the internet. Then we also positioned a new distribution
box from which we connected wires to smaller junction boxes and from there to our electrical
components. Now this plan can look a bit intimidating
to people who never did electrical wiring before but it is actually quite simple. Everything starts in such a distribution box. In it you will always find some kind of circuit
breaker, in our case we used an RCBO which stands for residual current breaker with over
current. It will basically cut the power if you either
draw too much current between L and N which is your live and neutral wire or if a small
current is flowing from the L or N wire to the PE wire which is your protective earth.

If you want to know more details about those
3 mains voltage wires or how circuit breakers works then definitely make sure to watch my
video about the topic. But anyway, with the circuit breaker in place
we can simply add all the outlets to the output of it in parallel along with the two circuit
switch which basically turns on the 4 lamps in groups of two. And in case you are wondering such a switch
looks like this and is honestly nothing special. Such a plan is called a flow sheet and it
can really help you when it comes to making the connections inside the small junction
boxes since those are not explained in the installation plan. There however we can see that the wires normally
just need 3 conductors inside which are for L,N and PE.

Only one time we need a 5 conductor wire because
we not only have to use L,N and PE but we also have to create two separate switched
L phases in order to turn on and off the grouped lamps. Those two plans were basically our theoretical
foundation to determine what components and how much wire to order. So here is part of my final order which was
pretty much only extended by a separate order of 6 LED Lamps. And after around one week of waiting I received
all of the components and of course immediately checked whether everything arrived safely,
which it did. Now I will talk about each component a bit
more while using them during the practical build but for starters I wanted to test out
the Lamps we chose for the occasion. So I hooked its power wires up to a mains
voltage jack and plugged it in. As you can see the lamp was rather bright
and the colour temperature was not half bad which means it was time to head into the garage.

The first thing we did was opening up the
old distribution box and removing its fuse which was only rated for 6A. This rating is fitting for the 3×1.5mm2 NYM-J
wire we will be using since each conductor can handle around 16A. By the way the NYM-J kind wire is suitable
for indoor wiring without direct sunlight which was the case for us. So after removing the wires from the output
of the fuse, we basically got rid of the old outlets, the old lamp and the old switch along
with all the wires. Then we marked where we want to mount the
new distribution box, drilled the holes, added wall plugs and used screws to secure it to
the wall. At this point we used a Jokari to remove the
outer insulation of a wire we positioned between the old and new distribution box and afterwards
used wire strippers to remove the insulation of each conductor in order to connect them
to either the PE clamp or to the L or N input of the RCBO.


Such a Jokari and Wire stripers are pretty
much crucial when it comes to do electrical wiring so do not skimp on them. And when it comes to how much insulation you
have to remove from each conductor then simply follow the rating in mm which is printed onto
each electrical component. But anyway after we hooked up the mains voltages
wires inside the old distribution box, we reinserted the fuse, checked whether the RCBO
functions without a problem and afterwards wired up an outlet inside the new distribution
box so that I could power my soft box to get some decent lighting. Next we measured the length of the lamps and
positioned one of them on the ceiling to choose suitable spots for them. After then marking all their mounting holes,
we drilled them, added the wall plugs and secured the lamp mounting clamps with screws
to the ceiling. By the way since we will be doing lots of
hole marking, drilling, inserting of wall plugs and screwing something into them, I
will not repeat this process every time. With that being said, we secured the lamps
to the ceiling through the help of the just attached clips and continued by connecting
two of them temporally to the distribution box in order to get some better lighting.

Next we marked at a height of 1.1m where the
outlets and the switch should get positioned and also marked lines from the electrical
components right up to the ceiling where the cable conduits should get mounted. I ordered those conduits along with the other
components and their job is to basically hold the wires. To attach them to the wall and ceiling we
will be using such clips and in case you are wondering those clips need to get positioned
10cm away from the entrance of each component and in theory you need a new clip every 40cm
along the conduits length. The conduit then needs to end 5cm at the beginning
of every component and according to those guidelines we marked the position of all the
clips according to where the wires should get positioned in our installation plan. But before we did this we obviously had to
mount all the outlets, the switch and the junction boxes to the wall. And as soon as all clips were also in place,
it was finally time to cut conduits to size with the help of a small saw and secure them
to the wall and ceiling through the help of the clips.

Once we mounted all of them, it was finally
time to push the wires through them and then cut them with a decent excess length included
so that we will have no problems with too short wires in a second. Now the wiring for the outlets, switch and
lights is pretty straightforward by simply removing the outer insulation, pushing the
wire through the seal, removing the conductor insulation and connecting the conductors to
the electrical component like it is intended and then closing everything up. However for the junction boxes it was a bit
more difficult. As soon as all the wires were pushed inside
it, we connected the fitting conducts to one another according to the flow sheet with the
help of Wago splicing connectors. Since the used wire was solid we can use those
kinds but be careful when working with stranded wires like the ones of the lamp. There we have to use another kind of Wago
connector which is suited for stranded wires. But anyway as soon as all the connections
were made inside the junction boxes, we pushed the wires tidily in there while leaving enough
excess length for possible future modifications and closed the boxes up.

By the way the lid of the junction box tells
you how many connectors and what kind of wire is allowed in there. As almost the final step we wired up the rest
of the junction boxes and the lamps in order to finally connect the wires to mains voltage
after the circuit breaker inside the distribution box. And after powering everything up, we firstly
tested the lights which as expected worked without any problems and afterwards used a
voltage tester to see whether all the outlets featured mains voltage, which they also did. All that was left to do was to cut holes in
the distribution box lid in order to properly secure it in its rightful place.

And just like that the new garage wiring was
done and I hope that you learned a thing or two about proper electrical wiring. If so don't forget to like, share, subscribe
and hit the notification bell. Stay creative and I will see you next time!.

As found on YouTube

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