How to use slip couplings to tee into a rigid copper pipe

In this video we are going to look at
putting a t piece into a rigid copper pipe. This can be difficult to do and I once had to do this a few years ago and there was actually a boiler at the top and at the
bottom it was concreted into a concrete floor so you couldn't actually move the pipe at all. If you need to put a t piece in there you can't actually move those pipes
because they are rigid so that does make it extremely difficult to put a fitting in like that even if it's a compression fitting. You do need some movement to be able to be able to get a new fitting in a pipe like that. So
the way you do it is by using a slip coupling. That is a normal couplar, that is a solder ring fitting couplar. If we take a piece of copper pipe and push
that in there it will actually physically stop where that line is there, there is actually a stop in the fitting and that prevents you from pushing the pipe
all the way through.

The same goes for an end feed coupler that has a stop in the
centre and the same goes for a compression fitting. You can only actually push the pipe halfway in that is so you always
make a good joint. In instances where you need to join into something like
that you're gonna need a slip coupler. The slip coupler looks like that and there
actually is no stop in the center of it so that means that you can push
the pipe all the way through like so. You are going to need two of these to make the joint work.

So what we need to do is cut a section of that out and then we need to
use a slip coupler at the top and at the bottom and then in the middle there we
will have our T piece coming out. There is quite a lot of work involved in doing
this but it is probably the only way you can actually join into a pipe that is
rigid that you can't move. Another problem with pipes like you can't
actually get the pipe slice in because there is no room.

That has actually
been clipped in position in a couple of places so we cannot actually move that
pipe. So we're going to have to cut through that using a hack saw. I can't actually get the blade out now so I'm just going to have to loosen that off. It is important when you do this that you
leave enough room. What you don't want to do is make it too small and have to cut the
pipe again. So we're now going to make the second cut. If you can't get in with
the deburring tool you can use a piece of abrasive paper. So they are now
burr free I'm just going to check a fitting on there you can see that goes
on there easily, and also on that end.

We are now going to use the piece of copper
pipe that we took out and the overall length needs to be fourteen and a half
centimeters roughly. We're going to put that T piece in the middle there. Every time I make a cut with the pipe slice I'm going to deburr it using the deburring tool. So we can now push that
part into the fitting and I'll cut that to length with the pipe slice. So I can now
push that in there you see we've got the exact, correct length.

So I'm now
cutting the last piece and that is going to go in that part of the T. Because the
slip couplings can slide all the way down the pipe like so it's a good idea
to put a mark on to ensure that you get them in the correct place. The last thing
you want is it to slip down like that and not make a good joint. So a good way of
doing that is to get a normal cuplar like so with a stop in, push that on
there and then we could put a mark using a
permanent marker and we know what exactly where that fitting needs to be. I'm actually just going to mark it on the wood there.

Building engineering

Then I'm going to do the
same with the top. When you fit this piece you can actually
do all the soldering in one go or you can solder the T piece first which will make
it a little bit easier. So in this example I'm just going to solder this
part first. So just like I did before I'm going to clean all of the copper pipe up
using the scotch brite pad. I will also clean the other ends up as well because
they're going to be soldered shortly.

It's also a good idea if you have an old
fitting to cut a piece of scotch brite pad and just clean the inside of the
fitting this one is actually brand new so there's no need to do that. I am now going to take a flux brush and I'm going to apply some flux to each of the pieces of
copper. Once we have done that we can then push that into the fitting. We can then just check we've got the pipes the correct way around before we solder it. I'm now just going to use a paper towel
to wipe off any of the excess flux.

I'm then just going to stand that up in a fitting just so we can solder it. I'm now just going to apply some heat to that until
the solder exits from the fitting. So if you take a look at that you can
see that we've got solder exiting from all three parts of the tee. If you're not
familiar with solder ring fittings these are a superb way of joining copper pipe
and they actually have the solder built into the fitting so they are very, very
easy to use.

Obviously for professional plumbers
they'll probably use something like that which is called an end feed fitting and
if you use these you do have to use additional solder. So that is now cool
enough to touch we now just need to apply some fluk to those two parts. I'm now
going to apply the flux to the two pipes. We can now take the slip couplings, we'll
just slide those down, I'm going to slide the fitting all the way up there like so,
then I'm going to insert the pipe.

I'm going to move the bottom slip coupling
up and the top slip coupling down. You will remember that earlier I put a mark on there so we need to get the bottom of the slip coupling level with that. So the
top one just needs to come down a bit more. So we've got the two slip couplings
in the exact correct position aligned with the two marks. We now just need to
remove any excess flux. Because we're soldering near timber and
plasterboard I'm just going to use the heat mat, I'm just going to tape that in
position to prevent anything from getting scorched or set on fire. So
get the blow torch and apply a little bit of heat to each of
the fittings.

You can remove the heat once you see the
solder exiting from the fitting. So that's how to import a T piece into a rigid copper pipe you can now connect another fitting on there you can do whatever you
want with that, it is a good idea to flush out the pipe obviously before you
use it to get rid of the flux etc. I hope you have enjoyed watching this video if you
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